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How to Move Perennials and Shrubs Without Loss

Need to move a shrub or perennial? When to do it, how big a root ball to dig, and the simple aftercare that gets moved plants settled again.

Last updated: 19 October 2026

Gardener moving a shrub with a wide hessian-wrapped root ball across a mature suburban UK garden in autumn How To
Move most perennials and shrubs between October and mid-March, while they're dormant. Dig a root ball at least a third as wide as the branches and 25-30cm deep. For a shrub over five years old, cut round its roots a year ahead. Replant at the same depth and water about 10 litres a week through the first summer. Daphne, magnolia and tap-rooted plants hate being moved.
Best TimeOctober to mid-March
Root BallA third of the spread, 25-30cm deep
First SummerAbout 10 litres of water a week
Key To SuccessA big root ball and steady watering

Key takeaways

  • Move plants between October and mid-March, ideally in autumn
  • Dig a root ball at least a third as wide as the branches and 25-30cm deep
  • For older shrubs, cut a circle round the roots a year before the move
  • Replant at the same depth and water well right through the first summer
  • Daphne, magnolia, broom and tap-rooted plants rarely survive a move

When is the best time to move perennials and shrubs?

Move most plants between October and mid-March, while they’re dormant. Autumn is the best bet, because the soil is still warm and roots can grow before spring.

Evergreens are the exception. They keep losing water through their leaves all winter, so a December move is hard on them. Move them in early October or wait until April. Ornamental grasses want moving in spring only, as autumn-moved grasses often rot. Don’t dig in frozen ground, because it tears the root ball apart. A quick look at the Met Office forecast helps before a late-winter move.

Plant groupBest monthsSecond choiceAvoid
Deciduous shrubsNovember to FebruaryMarchMay to September
Evergreen shrubsEarly OctoberAprilDecember to February
Herbaceous perennialsOctoberMarch to AprilJune to August
Ornamental grassesApril to MayNoneSeptember to March
RosesNovember to FebruaryNoneApril to September
BambooApril to MayNoneAutumn and winter

Lots of border perennials are better split than moved whole. If the clump has a dead middle, dividing it gives you three or four young plants instead of one tired one. Our guide to perennials to divide in May covers spring ones like hostas and hardy geraniums.

Frosted October border in a mature suburban garden with a spade standing ready beside a deciduous shrub Late October is ideal. The leaves are falling but the soil is still warm enough for new roots.

How big should the root ball be?

Dig a root ball at least a third as wide as the branch spread, and 25-30cm deep. So a shrub 1.2m across needs a ball about 40cm wide. Older shrubs have thicker, deeper roots, so give them more room. Aim for about 60cm across on anything over eight years old, and get a friend to help lift it.

Perennials are easier. Lift the whole clump with a fork and most come up with a 25-30cm ball of their own. Asters, daylilies and hardy geraniums barely notice losing half their roots. Get the fork a good 25cm down so the crown comes up in one piece.

Root pruning: the year-ahead trick for older shrubs

For a shrub over five years old, cut round its roots a year before you move it. In October, push a sharp spade in to its full depth all the way round, in a circle the size of your planned root ball. The cut roots grow lots of fine new roots inside the circle, right where you’ll dig next autumn.

Can’t wait a year? Even a couple of months helps. Cut the circle in August for an October move. It’s not as good, but it’s better than nothing.

How do you lift a shrub without killing it?

  1. Water the day before. Give it a good soak. Moist soil holds the root ball together, while dry soil just falls off.
  2. Dig the new hole first. Make it twice as wide as the root ball and exactly as deep. Loosen the bottom and sides with a fork.
  3. Tie in the branches. A loop of soft string keeps them out of your face while you dig.
  4. Dig a trench round your circle. Make it a spade wide and about 30cm deep, just outside the root ball line.
  5. Cut underneath. Work the spade in at an angle from all sides until the plant rocks freely.
  6. Tip and slide. Rock the root ball onto an old tarpaulin or sack and drag it to the new hole. Carry the root ball, never the stems.

Replant at exactly the same depth as before. Use the old soil mark on the stem as your guide, as burying it deeper can rot the bark. Moving just one big plant? Our guide to moving a shrub safely walks through a single move step by step.

Spade undercutting the root ball of a shrub at 45 degrees with a trench dug around it Work the spade under the root ball from all sides until the plant rocks free, then slide it onto a tarpaulin.

Replanting and the first year of aftercare

Water a moved shrub with about 10 litres a week from April to September, and more in dry spells. This matters more than anything else. The plant has lost a lot of roots, so it needs your help to stay watered for its first summer.

Fill the hole with the soil you dug out, not bagged compost. A pocket of rich compost in clay holds water like a sump, and roots go round in circles inside it. Firm the soil in layers with your heel. Then make a little ring of soil round the edge of the root ball, so water soaks in rather than running off. The same rules apply when you plant a bare-root tree.

Watering can soaking a newly replanted shrub inside a raised soil basin with fresh bark mulch A ring of soil round the root ball holds each can of water where the roots need it.

Which plants survive moving and which hate it?

Plants with lots of fine, spreading roots move well. Plants with one long tap root usually don’t. Hostas and hydrangeas have a dense mat of shallow roots that soon regrow. An oriental poppy has one thick root heading straight down, and if the spade snaps it, the plant can’t recover.

Leave magnolia, daphne and broom where they are if you possibly can. For oriental poppies, lupins and sea holly, take root cuttings rather than moving the whole plant.

Close-up of a mature daphne shrub flowering by a house wall, a plant that should never be transplanted Best left alone. Daphne hates having its roots disturbed and moved plants often die.

Common mistakes when moving plants

  • Too small a root ball. The plant wilts for summer after summer.
  • Planting too deep. Keep the old soil mark at ground level.
  • A pocket of compost in clay. Use the soil you dug out instead.
  • Forgetting to water. The first summer is when moved plants are lost.
  • Moving in full leaf. Wait for autumn if you can.

Frequently asked questions

When is the best time to move shrubs in the UK?

October to mid-March, while they’re dormant. Autumn is best, because the soil is still warm enough for new roots to grow before spring. Move evergreens in early October or April instead. Avoid moving anything in full leaf in summer unless you really have to.

How big should the root ball be when moving a shrub?

At least a third of the branch spread, and 25-30cm deep. So a shrub 1.2m across needs a root ball about 40cm wide. Older shrubs need more, so aim for about 60cm across on anything over eight years old.

Can I move a shrub in summer?

You can, but it will struggle. Only do it if building work or a house move leaves no choice. Take the biggest root ball you can lift, cut the top growth back by a third, and water about 10 litres every two days for eight weeks.

Which plants should never be moved?

Magnolia, daphne, broom and tap-rooted perennials usually die after moving. Their long roots snap when you dig, and they can’t regrow them. Oriental poppies, lupins and sea holly are the usual ones. Take root cuttings or buy a new plant instead.

Do peonies really die if you move them?

No, herbaceous peonies move fine if you replant them at the same depth. The trouble usually comes from planting them too deep afterwards. Keep the buds no more than 2.5cm below the surface. They may skip flowering for a year or two while they settle.

How long does a moved shrub take to recover?

Usually a year or so after an autumn move. Expect fewer flowers and some wilting on hot days in the first summer. Growth normally picks up in the second year. If it’s still wilting after two summers, the root ball was too small.

moving plants transplanting shrubs perennials garden jobs

By Garden UK Editorial Team

Our team produces practical UK gardening guidance from source research, contributor records and established horticultural practice. Editorial standards are overseen by Matt W.

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