How to Build a Wildlife Pond UK Guide

A wildlife pond is one of the best things you can do for nature in your garden. Nothing else brings in so much life so quickly. Frogs, newts, dragonflies, damselflies, water beetles and birds will find even a small pond, often within weeks.

New ponds often turn green at first, so it’s worth reading how to clear green pond water.

You don’t need a big garden or a big budget. A pond about 1m across and 60cm deep costs roughly fifty to one hundred pounds and takes a weekend. If you’re creating a wildlife garden, a pond is a brilliant first project.

Choosing a location

The best spot is level, sunny for at least 6 hours a day, away from overhanging trees and close to some cover.

Sunlight

Aim for at least 6 hours of direct sun a day. Sun helps the plants grow, and the plants keep the water healthy. A pond in deep shade has fewer plants and fewer visitors.

Away from trees

Don’t put the pond right under trees. Fallen leaves rot in the water, feeding algae and using up oxygen. If trees are nearby, plan to net the pond in October and November.

Level ground

The ground needs to be level, or the water will sit deeper on one side and the liner will show on the other. Check with a spirit level on a long, straight plank before you lay the liner. Even a small slope shows.

Access for wildlife

Put the pond near hedges, long grass, fences with gaps or log piles. Hedgehogs can fall in and drown if there’s no easy way out. Frogs and toads need somewhere to hide during the day, so add rocks, logs or thick planting within a metre of the edge.

Safety

If toddlers use the garden, think about a raised pond, a strong mesh fixed just under the surface, or waiting until they’re older. Even a few centimetres of water can be dangerous for small children. A bog garden, damp but not flooded, is a safer option that still brings in wildlife.

Planning the shape and depth

Go for a natural, wiggly shape, at least 60cm deep in the middle, with wide shallow edges. Curves and little bays give creatures more places to live.

Depth zones

A good wildlife pond has three depths:

1. Shallow edges (0-15cm), the most important part. Frogs spawn here, birds drink and bathe, and edge plants grow. It warms up first in spring.
2. Middle shelf (15-40cm), for taller edge plants in baskets.
3. Deep zone (40-60cm or more), which stays cool in summer and doesn’t freeze solid in winter.

Minimum size

Even a washing-up bowl of water will attract some wildlife. But a pond about 1m x 2m and 60cm deep stays steadier through the year and suits far more creatures. If you’ve got room, go bigger.

Edge profile

Gentle slopes are a must. A slope of about 1 in 3, so one step down for every three along, lets hedgehogs, frogs and beetles walk in and climb out. Steep sides trap and drown wildlife. Make at least one side a gentle, beach-like slope.

Choosing a liner

Butyl rubber is the best choice for most wildlife ponds. PVC and rigid pre-formed ponds are the other options.

Butyl rubber

The best choice for most wildlife ponds. It’s flexible, tough and lasts for decades. It fits any shape and depth. It costs more than PVC but lasts far longer.

PVC liner

Cheaper than butyl, but it doesn’t last as long and can crack over time, especially in the cold. Fine for a budget pond if you don’t mind replacing it one day.

Pre-formed rigid liner

Moulded plastic or fibreglass shapes. They’re easy to fit, but usually too steep at the sides and too small for good wildlife ponds. Best avoided if wildlife is the aim.

Calculating liner size

Measure the longest length, widest width and deepest depth of your hole. Then:

• Length: pond length + (2 x depth) + 60cm for overlap
• Width: pond width + (2 x depth) + 60cm for overlap

So a 2m x 1.5m pond, 60cm deep, needs a liner about 3.8m x 3.3m. That leaves about 30cm spare all round.

Underlay

Always put an underlay under the liner. Old carpet, a 5cm layer of sand or proper pond underlay stops stones and roots poking through. Don’t skip it. Fixing a leak means emptying the whole pond.

Step-by-step construction

What you need

• Butyl liner, cut to size
• Underlay or old carpet
• Spade and wheelbarrow
• Spirit level and a long, straight plank
• Hosepipe or rope to mark the outline
• Sand, if you’re using it as underlay
• Native pond plants
• Pebbles and cobbles for the beach

Digging

1. Mark the outline with a hosepipe or rope. Step back and check it looks natural from different angles.
2. Lift the turf. Save any good turf for elsewhere.
3. Dig the shallow edge first, about 15cm deep, all the way round.
4. Dig the middle shelf inside that, 30-40cm deep. Leave a shelf about 30cm wide for plant baskets.
5. Dig the deep zone in the middle, at least 60cm. For bigger ponds, go deeper still.
6. Shape a beach on at least one side, sloping gently from the rim down to the shallow edge.
7. Check the levels all the way round with the spirit level and plank. Add or remove soil until the rim is level.
8. Pick out sharp stones, roots and rubble.

Dig the shallow edge first, then the shelf and the deep middle. Check the rim with a plank and level before any liner goes in.

Installing the liner

1. Lay the underlay over the whole hole, overlapping pieces by 30cm.
2. Drape the liner loosely into the hole without stretching it. A warm day makes it more flexible.
3. Start filling. Rainwater from water butts is best, as tap water adds nutrients that feed algae. The water’s weight pushes the liner into shape. Smooth out big creases as it fills. Small folds are fine and will be hidden.
4. Once full, trim the liner, leaving about 30cm spare. Tuck the edge under turf, stones or soil so it’s hidden and secure.
5. Lay cobbles and pebbles on the beach and gravel on the shelves. This hides the liner and gives tiny creatures somewhere to live.

Laying a butyl liner into a freshly dug pond with gently sloping sides.

Planting a wildlife pond

Add a few native underwater, edge and floating plants, or simply let the pond fill up with plants on its own. Native plants are best for native wildlife.

Should You Put Soil in a Wildlife Pond?

No, don’t add garden soil or turf. Both release a rush of nutrients that feeds algae and blanket weed for months.

Keep soil, turf and fish food out of new ponds. A bare liner covered with washed gravel and a few stones is all the tiny creatures need. If you plant edge plants, use baskets of low-nutrient aquatic compost topped with gravel. Planting is optional. Wind, birds and insects bring in seeds, and many ponds green up by themselves within a couple of years. If you buy plants, choose native ones from a specialist nursery and rinse them first, so you don’t bring in duckweed or snails.

Underwater plants

These do the most to keep the water clear and healthy. Put them in the deep zone.

• Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) floats free, so there’s no planting. Just drop a weighted bunch into the deep zone.
• Water starwort (Callitriche stagnalis) is a native that keeps going through winter.
• Spiked water milfoil (Myriophyllum spicatum) has feathery leaves, great for bugs and for newts to lay eggs on.

Edge plants

Plant these on the shelves and in the shallows. They give cover, food and places to lay eggs.

• Marsh marigold (Caltha palustris) has bright yellow flowers in March and April, a treat for early bees and hoverflies.
• Water forget-me-not (Myosotis scorpioides) has blue flowers from May and sprawls softly over the edge.
• Water mint (Mentha aquatica) has lilac flowers in July and August and smells lovely. It spreads fast, so plant it in a basket.
• Brooklime (Veronica beccabunga) has blue flowers and gives early cover in spring.
• Yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus) grows over 1m tall with yellow flowers in June. Only for ponds at least 1.5m across, as it takes over small ones.
• Purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria) has magenta spikes from July, grows in damp soil by the edge and is loved by bees and butterflies. See our list of the best plants for butterflies.

Floating plants

Leaves on the surface shade the water, which keeps algae down and gives creatures somewhere to hide.

• Frogbit (Hydrocharis morsus-ranae) is a native with small, round leaves and white flowers. Perfect for small ponds.
• White water lily (Nymphaea alba) is only for bigger ponds, at least 2m across. It gives great shade and dragonflies love landing on it. Dwarf lilies suit smaller ponds.

Bog plants (damp edges)

The soil around the pond stays damp and suits moisture-loving plants. A patch of wildflower lawn nearby stretches the habitat further. Candelabra primulas love it here too, and our guide to growing primula covers the bog-loving kinds.

• Ragged robin (Silene flos-cuculi) has pink flowers in May and June and is a native wildflower that’s become less common.
• Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria) has creamy, scented flowers in July and grows to about 1.2m.
• Bugle (Ajuga reptans) has blue flower spikes in April and May and makes good low cover by the edge.

A settled wildlife pond with edge plants, water lilies and a log pile, and a frog resting on a lily pad.

Buy native pond plants from a specialist aquatic nursery. Some “pond plants” sold elsewhere are invasive non-natives, such as Australian swamp stonecrop (Crassula helmsii), which must not be planted in the wild. Check the Latin name on the label.

What wildlife to expect

Pond skaters, water beetles and birds usually turn up within weeks. Frogs, newts and dragonflies follow over the first couple of years. You don’t need to bring anything in.

First year

• Pond skaters and water boatmen often arrive within days
• Frogs visit most new ponds in the first year, with frogspawn the next spring
• Dragonflies and damselflies may lay eggs in the first summer. Their young live underwater for a year or more before emerging.
• Water beetles fly in within weeks
• Birds use the shallow edges to drink and bathe straight away. Attracting birds is much easier with a pond.

A dragonfly resting on reeds by the pond. Look out for these from the first summer.

Second year onwards

• Newts. Smooth and palmate newts often find ponds within a year or two. They lay eggs on underwater plants.
• Dragonflies start emerging from the pond itself.
• Grass snakes may visit to hunt frogs. They’re harmless and a sign of a healthy garden.
• Hedgehogs drink from the shallow edges at night, so make sure your hedgehog-friendly garden pond has gentle slopes.

Hedgehogs drink at the shallow edges at night. A gentle pebble beach means they can always climb back out.

What If Great Crested Newts Turn Up?

Great crested newts are a protected species. You must not catch, handle, disturb or harm them without a licence, and damaging their breeding or resting places is an offence too.

They’re the UK’s biggest newt, up to about 17cm long, with dark, warty skin and a bright orange, spotted belly. Males grow a jagged crest in spring. According to gov.uk guidance, pond work where they live should normally be done between early November and late January. Summer work will almost certainly need a licence from Natural England. In practice, leave the pond alone in spring and summer and do any clearing in early winter.

Will a Wildlife Pond Attract Mosquitoes?

Rarely many. Dragonfly larvae, water beetles, backswimmers and newts all eat mosquito larvae.

Mosquitoes much prefer small pockets of still water with no predators, like blocked gutters, open water butts, plant saucers and old buckets. A brand-new pond may have a few larvae in its first summer, before the predators arrive, but numbers usually drop as the pond settles. Put lids on water butts and empty standing water from containers weekly.

What not to add

Never add fish. Goldfish, koi and other fish eat frogspawn, tadpoles, newt young, water beetles and dragonfly larvae. If you’d like fish, our guide on how to build a garden pond covers ornamental fish ponds.

Never move frogspawn or pond water from another pond. It can spread diseases that kill frogs and newts. Let wildlife arrive on its own.

Maintenance calendar

A wildlife pond needs very little care, just a few jobs through the year. Doing too much is the most common mistake.

Spring (March to May)

• Look for frogspawn in the shallows. Leave it where it is.
• Twist blanket weed out onto a stick. Leave it on the bank overnight so creatures can crawl back into the water.
• Top up in a dry spring, ideally with rainwater from a water butt. Tap water adds nutrients that feed algae.

Summer (June to August)

• Green water in a new pond is normal and clears as plants grow.
• Thin out plants if they cover more than two-thirds of the surface.
• Top up in hot weather. A water-efficient garden with a water butt makes this easy.
• Watch dragonflies laying eggs and damselflies resting on stems.

Autumn (September to November)

• Net the pond if trees are nearby, and take the net off once the leaves have fallen.
• Cut dead edge plant stems back to about 15cm above the water. Leave some standing for insects.
• Don’t clear out the mud on the bottom in autumn. Creatures are settling in for winter.

Winter (December to February)

• If it freezes, never smash the ice, as the shock can harm pond life. Melt a hole by standing a pan of hot water on the surface.
• Frogs may spend the winter in the mud at the bottom. Leave them be.
• Leave dead stems standing, as they help air get in under the ice.

Never smash the ice, as the shock can harm pond life. A pan of hot water melts a hole gently.

Cost breakdown

A basic 2m x 1.5m wildlife pond costs roughly fifty to ninety pounds.

The liner is the biggest cost. PVC is cheaper but doesn’t last as long. Old carpet and stones from the garden save even more. A pond in a half-barrel costs less still and brings in dragonflies and birds.

Common mistakes to avoid

Making the sides too steep

Steep sides trap and drown wildlife. Make at least one side slope gently, about 1 in 3 or shallower. Think beach, not swimming pool. A rough log or stone as an extra ramp is a good backup.

Filling with tap water

Tap water adds nutrients that feed algae. Use rainwater where you can.

Planting too much

A new pond looks bare, and it’s tempting to fill it up. But pond plants grow fast. Start with 5 or 6 kinds and let them settle for a couple of seasons. It’s easier to add plants than to pull out overgrown ones.

Cleaning too often

A wildlife pond shouldn’t be crystal clear. Slightly green or brown water is healthy and full of tiny life. The mud on the bottom is home to bugs and wintering frogs. Only clear it every few years, and only half the pond at a time.

Adding fish

Fish eat most of what makes a wildlife pond special. Even a few goldfish can clear a small pond of tadpoles, beetle larvae and dragonfly young.

Container ponds for small spaces

No garden is too small for a pond. A half-barrel, big pot or old Belfast sink makes a lovely mini pond. In a small garden or on a patio, it fits on a balcony, patio or courtyard.

A half-barrel at least 40cm deep makes a lovely mini pond. Stack a few stones inside so creatures can climb in and out.

Setting up a container pond

1. Choose a watertight container at least 40cm deep and 50cm across. Seal terracotta with pond sealant.
2. Put it somewhere with 4-6 hours of sun.
3. Add a few centimetres of washed gravel. Plant edge plants in small baskets of aquatic compost, not garden soil or potting compost, which are too rich.
4. Add one underwater plant (hornwort), one edge plant (marsh marigold or water forget-me-not) and one floater (frogbit).
5. Fill with rainwater and top up with rainwater in dry weather.
6. Add a few stones or a small branch so creatures can climb in and out.
7. Wait. Insects will find it within days.

Mini ponds bring in dragonflies, damselflies, water beetles, hoverflies and birds. Frogs find ground-level ones more easily than raised ones, but even without frogs, the insect life makes it worthwhile.

Once your pond is in, our guide to the best pond plants for UK gardens is the next step.

For more on making ponds and finding native plants, the Freshwater Habitats Trust has plenty of practical advice.

Frequently asked questions

How deep should a wildlife pond be?

At least 60cm at the deepest point. That stops it freezing solid in winter. Add shallow edges of 5-15cm too, where frogs spawn and edge plants grow. A mix of depths suits the most wildlife.

Can I put fish in a wildlife pond?

No, keep fish out of a wildlife pond. Fish eat frogspawn, tadpoles, newt young and dragonfly larvae. If you’d like fish, make a separate ornamental pond somewhere else in the garden.

When is the best time to build a wildlife pond?

Autumn is ideal, from about September to November. The soil is easy to dig and plants settle in over winter. The pond is then ready for frogs in spring. Spring building works too.

Do I need a pump or filter for a wildlife pond?

No, a wildlife pond needs no equipment at all. Underwater plants like hornwort and water starwort keep the water healthy. Pumps stir up the still water many creatures like, and filters remove the tiny life that feeds everything else.

How do I stop a wildlife pond going green?

Be patient, as green water is normal in a new pond. It usually clears as the underwater plants grow and use up the nutrients. Cover about a third of the surface with plants for shade, and top up with rainwater. Never use algae treatments.

Will frogs find my pond on their own?

Yes, frogs find new ponds surprisingly quickly. Many new ponds have frog visitors within the first year. Never bring in frogspawn from another pond, as it can spread diseases that kill frogs and newts.

Do I need planning permission for a garden pond?

Usually not. Most garden ponds don’t need planning permission. If you live in a listed building or conservation area, or the pond will be very large, check with your council first.