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Greenhouse Pest Control: UK Guide

How to spot and deal with greenhouse whitefly, red spider mite, aphids, vine weevil and slugs using helpful bugs, good airflow and a tidy greenhouse.

Last updated: 19 October 2026

Elite Thyme 6x10 aluminium greenhouse in a UK garden surrounded by flowering plants Pests & Problems
The usual greenhouse pests in the UK are whitefly, red spider mite, aphids, vine weevil, slugs, mealybug and scale insects. Check leaf undersides weekly from April so you catch them early. Helpful bugs like the Encarsia wasp for whitefly and predatory mites for red spider mite work well once it's warm. A good autumn clean, plenty of fresh air and checking new plants keep most problems away.
Common PestsWhitefly, red spider mite, aphids
Natural HelpWasps, predatory mites, nematodes
Start CheckingWeekly from April
Autumn CleanOctober to November

Key takeaways

  • Seven pests cause most greenhouse trouble, led by whitefly, red spider mite and aphids
  • Check the undersides of leaves every week from April
  • Helpful bugs like Encarsia wasps and predatory mites are safe on food crops
  • Most helpful bugs need warmth, so bring them in from late spring
  • A good autumn clean clears out pests hiding over winter
  • Plenty of fresh air keeps the greenhouse less welcoming to pests

Greenhouse pests love the same warm, sheltered conditions that make growing under glass so rewarding. The warmth that ripens your tomatoes also lets whitefly, red spider mite and aphids multiply fast. A few pests in May can become a real headache by July if you don’t catch them.

The good news is there’s a reliable answer for every common greenhouse pest. Helpful bugs such as tiny wasps, predatory mites and nematodes do a great job. Add good hygiene and plenty of fresh air, and most gardeners can keep pests in check without reaching for sprays.

How to identify common greenhouse pests

Knowing what you’re dealing with is half the battle. These seven are the usual suspects in UK greenhouses.

PestWhat to look forDamageWhen
Glasshouse whiteflyTiny white flies under leavesSticky honeydew, black mould, yellowingMay to October
Red spider miteTiny yellow-green mites, fine webbingPale speckling, bronzed leavesJune to September
AphidsGreen, black or pink clusters on shoot tipsTwisted growth, honeydewApril to October
Vine weevilBlack beetles; C-shaped white grubs in compostGrubs eat roots, adults notch leavesAdults May to September, grubs autumn to spring
Slugs and snailsSlime trails on stagingSeedlings eaten, holes in leaves and fruitAll year in heated greenhouses
MealybugWhite, waxy, cottony blobsSap sucking, honeydew, weak plantsAll year indoors
Scale insectsBrown domed bumps on stems and leaf veinsSap sucking, honeydew, diebackAll year indoors

Check your plants weekly from April. A handful of pests is far easier to deal with than a big colony. For more on red spider mite, see our guide to spider mite identification and control.

Biological controls for greenhouse pests

Biological controls are natural enemies of pests that you buy and release into the greenhouse. They’re the best long-term answer and safe to use on food crops right up to picking.

Whitefly: Encarsia formosa

The tiny wasp Encarsia formosa is the go-to control for glasshouse whitefly. It lays an egg inside young whitefly, which turn black as the wasp grows inside. Release it from May, following the supplier’s instructions. It needs warmth and good light to work, so it does best in summer. Give it a few weeks to make a difference.

Spider mites: Phytoseiulus persimilis

Phytoseiulus persimilis is a fast-moving predatory mite that eats red spider mites and their eggs. Release it at the first sign of pale speckling on leaves, not once webbing has taken over. It likes warmth and some humidity, so damp down the floor on hot days. You may need to top it up during the peak season.

Aphids: Aphidius colemani

The tiny wasp Aphidius colemani lays its eggs inside aphids. Aphids it has used turn into swollen, papery brown “mummies” on the leaves. Release it from April, when the first aphids appear. For bad outbreaks, add lacewing larvae too. Our full aphid control guide has more ideas.

Vine weevil and slugs: nematodes

Nematodes are microscopic worms you water into the compost. One kind, Steinernema kraussei, attacks vine weevil grubs. Water it in during spring or autumn when the compost is above 5C. Another, Phasmarhabditis hermaphrodita, tackles slugs. See our guides on vine weevil treatment and getting rid of slugs for when to apply them.

Louvre vent providing airflow to reduce humidity A Vitavia louvre vent lets fresh air in low down and keeps the greenhouse from getting too humid.

You can shop the Vitavia Louvre Window at Greenhouse Stores.

Prevention: ventilation, hygiene, and companion planting

Stopping pests getting a foothold is cheaper and easier than dealing with them later. Three habits make the biggest difference.

Ventilation and airflow

Still, damp air suits whitefly and grey mould. Hot, dry air suits red spider mite. You want moving air that keeps it from getting too hot or too humid.

Automatic vent openers are the easiest upgrade. Our guide to greenhouse ventilation and humidity control covers the different vents and how to keep humidity comfortable. The Palram Auto Vent Opener opens roof vents as it warms up, with no electricity needed. For side vents, the Vitavia Louvre Window lets air in low down, and the Elite Automatic Louvre Opener opens it for you. Roof and side vents together give a through-draught that pests don’t like.

Greenhouse hygiene

A good autumn clean is the best thing you can do. Pest eggs and sleeping adults hide over winter in cracks, under staging and in old plant bits. In October, clear everything out. Wash the glass, staging and frame joints with greenhouse disinfectant, and scrub under the staging where slugs hide. An afternoon’s work makes a big difference next spring.

Through the season, pick off dead leaves and clear fallen fruit. Check every new plant before it comes in, looking under the leaves and on the compost. If you can, keep new plants separate for a week. Our greenhouse growing calendar has monthly reminders to help.

Greenhouse half way through an autumn clean with scrubbed staging and some glass still green with algae

Pest eggs and sleeping adults hide over winter in cracks and old plant bits. An afternoon clearing out and scrubbing in October makes a big difference next spring.

Companion planting

A few companions can help alongside your other controls. French marigolds (Tagetes patula) are a popular partner for tomatoes, and their flowers bring in hoverflies whose larvae eat aphids. Basil is a handy neighbour for tomatoes too. Nasturtiums by the door can lure aphids away from your crops. Our companion planting guide covers more pairings.

French marigolds and basil make cheerful partners for greenhouse tomatoes.

Monthly pest control calendar

Timing matters. Here’s what to do through the year.

MonthWhat the pests are up toWhat to do
January to FebruaryHiding as eggs and pupae in cracksOrder helpful bugs, fix glass and seals
MarchAphids on early sowings, slugs waking upHang yellow sticky traps, use slug nematodes once the soil is above 5C
AprilWhitefly and aphids increasing, first spider mitesRelease Aphidius, start weekly checks
MayEverything breeding, helpful bugs start working wellRelease Encarsia for whitefly and Phytoseiulus for spider mites
June to JulyPeak breedingTop up helpful bugs as needed, damp down floors
AugustBusiest time, mealybug and scale easy to spotSpot-treat bad patches, keep helpful bugs going
SeptemberVine weevils laying eggs, pests slowing downWater in vine weevil nematodes, plan the autumn clean
October to NovemberPests settling down for winterBig clean, clear debris, disinfect surfaces

Sprays for greenhouse pests

If your helpful bugs need back-up, use an authorised product and follow the label exactly. These sprays work on contact, so cover the undersides of the leaves well.

SB Plant Invigorator is an authorised product for whitefly, aphids, spider mites and mealybug. It works on contact, and you can bring in helpful bugs 24 hours after spraying. Ready-to-use authorised fatty-acid sprays are also sold for aphids, mealybug and scale. Avoid home-made mixes and neem oil as an insecticide, as they aren’t authorised for this use in the UK.

For pest control across the whole garden, see our guide to organic pest control methods. The RHS glasshouse red spider mite page has helpful photos, and Garden Organic covers growing under glass without chemicals.

Vitavia Venus 5000 Black greenhouse in a garden ready for the growing season A Vitavia Venus 5000 Black greenhouse, freshly cleaned and ready for the new season.

If you’re shopping for a new greenhouse, you can shop the Vitavia Venus 5000 at Greenhouse Stores.

Common mistakes in greenhouse pest control

Leaving it too late. Pests multiply fast in a warm greenhouse. A few whitefly in May can be thousands by July. Weekly checks from April catch them early.

Spraying the tops of leaves. Red spider mite, young whitefly and aphids live underneath. Spray from below with a fine mist and cover every leaf underside.

Gardener inspecting greenhouse pest damage on tomato leaf undersides A quick weekly look under the leaves catches whitefly and spider mites early.

Mixing sprays with helpful bugs. Most insecticides kill helpful wasps and mites as well as pests. If you go down the natural route, stick with it. Only use sprays that are safe alongside them, and wait 24 hours before releasing bugs.

Skipping the autumn clean. Missing it gives overwintering pests a head start next spring. It’s the single best job of the year for keeping pests down.

Too little fresh air. A shut greenhouse on a hot day is hot, dry and still, which red spider mite loves. Fit automatic vent openers and keep side vents open through the growing season.

Weak, stressed plants are more prone to disease too. Our guide on tomato blight prevention covers the problems they’re most likely to pick up.

Now you’ve got pests sorted, read our greenhouse growing calendar to plan your jobs through the season.

Frequently asked questions

What is the most common greenhouse pest in the UK?

Glasshouse whitefly is the most common greenhouse pest. The tiny white adults gather under the leaves and fly up when disturbed. They leave sticky honeydew that turns black with sooty mould. The Encarsia wasp is the best natural control.

How do I prevent pests in my greenhouse?

Clean up in autumn and check every new plant. Clear out old plant bits and wash surfaces before winter. Look under the leaves of new plants before they come in. Keep the air moving with vents, and hang yellow sticky traps from March to spot flying pests early.

Do biological controls work in unheated greenhouses?

Yes, once the weather warms up. Most helpful bugs need warmth to breed, so in an unheated greenhouse bring them in from late spring through to September. Some predatory mites cope with cooler conditions, so ask your supplier which suits your greenhouse.

What is the best organic spray for greenhouse pests?

SB Plant Invigorator is a popular, authorised choice. It works on contact against whitefly, aphids, red spider mite and mealybug. Spray the undersides of leaves well and follow the label. Wait 24 hours before adding helpful bugs.

How often should I clean my greenhouse to prevent pests?

Give it one big clean each year in October or November. Clear out plant debris, wash the glass and staging, and scrub the frame joints where pests hide. During the season, tidy dead leaves and check under pots for slugs and vine weevil.

Can companion planting reduce greenhouse pests?

It can help a little alongside other controls. French marigolds and basil are popular partners for tomatoes, and marigolds bring in hoverflies that eat aphids. Nasturtiums can lure aphids away from your crops. Keep checking your plants too, as companions alone won’t stop a big outbreak.

greenhouse pests biological control whitefly spider mites aphids vine weevil slugs organic pest control greenhouse gardening

By Garden UK Editorial Team

Our team produces practical UK gardening guidance from source research, contributor records and established horticultural practice. Editorial standards are overseen by Matt W.

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