Key takeaways
- Sow from April to mid-May and plant out 60cm apart in June or July
- Plant into firm, settled soil and stake plants by October against winter wind
- Spears crop from about February to April, filling the hungry gap
- Cut the central spear first, with buds tight, to trigger weeks of sideshoots
- Grow an early and a late variety to spread the harvest
- Keep netting on all year against pigeons and cabbage white caterpillars
Purple sprouting broccoli is the crop that feeds you when the veg plot is almost empty. It sits in the ground through autumn and winter, then sends out tender purple spears from about February to April. That lean stretch is called the hungry gap, and few crops fill it as well.
It’s a long commitment, as plants stay in the ground for most of a year. In return you get fresh, sweet spears when there’s little else to pick. Here’s how to sow, plant, protect and harvest it.
Purple sprouting broccoli vs calabrese
Purple sprouting broccoli (often shortened to PSB) and the green broccoli in shops are different crops for different seasons.
Purple sprouting broccoli is a hardy crop grown to overwinter. It makes lots of small purple spears over several weeks in late winter and spring. It needs a winter outside to crop and copes well with frost.
Calabrese is the green broccoli in supermarkets. It’s a fast summer crop that forms one big central head, then a few small sideshoots. It won’t survive a UK winter outside. For that, see our guide to growing broccoli and calabrese.
Growing both spreads your brassica harvest across much of the year.

One big summer head on the left, a bunch of spring spears on the right. Two different crops for two different seasons.
When to sow purple sprouting broccoli
Sow from April to mid-May for spears the following spring. That gives plants the whole summer to grow big and sturdy before winter. Later sowings stay small and crop poorly.

One strong seedling per cell gives sturdy plants that are ready to plant out by early summer.
There are two ways to sow:
- Modules: sow one or two seeds per cell, about 1.5cm deep, under cover. Thin to the strongest seedling and harden off before planting out.
- Seedbed: sow thinly outdoors in shallow drills about 15cm apart. Move the seedlings when they’re 10-15cm tall.
Early varieties can be sown a little sooner. Sow an early and a late variety at the same time for a longer harvest.
How to plant purple sprouting broccoli in firm soil
Plant out in June or July, when plants are 10-15cm tall with a strong stem. Space them 60cm apart each way. That looks generous, but a grown plant reaches about 90cm tall and almost as wide.

Press the soil down hard around each stem. A firmly planted brassica stands up far better to winter wind.
Firm soil matters more than anything else. Brassicas hate loose ground. Plant into a bed that has settled for months, not one you’ve just dug.
- Tread the bed firm before planting.
- Plant deeply, so the lowest leaves sit just above the soil.
- Firm hard around each stem with your heel or knuckles.
- Tug a leaf. The plant shouldn’t move.
- Water in well and cover with netting straight away.
Choose a sunny, fertile, well-drained spot. Dig in well-rotted manure the autumn before, not at planting time. Don’t grow brassicas in the same bed more than once every three years or so. Our crop rotation planner helps you plan this.
Purple sprouting broccoli growing calendar
Purple sprouting broccoli is a marathon. The autumn and winter jobs matter just as much as sowing.
| Month | Task |
|---|---|
| April | Main sowing in modules or a seedbed |
| May | Finish sowing. Harden off module plants |
| June | Plant out 60cm apart in firm soil. Net at once |
| July | Finish planting. Water in dry spells and hoe weeds |
| August | Keep netting on. Check for caterpillars |
| September | Draw soil up around the lower stems |
| October | Stake tall plants against autumn winds |
| November | Remove yellowing lower leaves. Re-firm any loose plants |
| December | Check netting is secure against pigeons |
| January | Re-firm soil after frosts and storms |
| February | Harvest starts. Cut central spears first |
| March | Peak picking. Cut sideshoots every few days |
| April | Late varieties crop. Clear finished plants |
How to harvest for the longest crop
Cut the central spear first, when it’s about 10-15cm long and the buds are still tight and closed. Use a sharp knife and take a good length of stem with it.
That first cut makes the plant send out sideshoots from the leaf joints lower down. These make up most of your crop. Pick them every two or three days for several weeks, always while the buds are closed.
Stop when the buds open into small yellow flowers. Flowering spears are tough, and the plant slows down once it starts flowering. Pick little and often, even if you can’t eat it all that day. Spare spears freeze well after a quick blanch.

Cut the central spear while the buds are tight, and a crop of sideshoots soon follows.
Which purple sprouting broccoli variety to grow
Choose by when you want to eat. Growing an early and a late variety spreads the harvest across more of late winter and spring.
| Variety | Harvest | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| ’Rudolph’ | Very early, from midwinter in mild areas | The usual pick for an early start |
| ’Early Purple Sprouting’ | Late winter to early spring | Reliable traditional type |
| ’Red Arrow’ | Early spring | Good mid-season choice |
| ’Claret’ F1 | Spring | Strong, heavy-cropping late type |
| ’Late Purple Sprouting’ | Mid to late spring | Carries the harvest towards May |
| ’White Sprouting’ | Spring | White spears instead of purple |
Spring harvest times depend on your area and the winter, so treat these as a guide.
Protecting plants from pests and disease
Purple sprouting broccoli spends almost a year in the ground, so it needs protecting for a long time.

Netting on hoops keeps pigeons off the leaves all winter without touching the plants.
- Pigeons strip leaves to the ribs in winter, when other food is scarce.
- Cabbage white caterpillars eat the leaves from late spring to autumn. Our guide to cabbage white butterfly control explains what to look for.
- Cabbage root fly maggots attack young roots soon after planting. See our guide to protecting brassicas from cabbage root fly.
Cover plants with fine insect mesh or butterfly netting from the day you plant them, and keep it on until harvest. Support it on hoops so it doesn’t touch the leaves.
Club root is a soil disease that causes swollen, distorted roots and wilting plants. It’s worst in acid, wet soil. Liming acid soil and improving drainage help. Learn the signs in our club root guide.
How to stop winter wind-rock
Wind-rock is when winter gales rock tall plants and loosen their roots. Roots tear, plants struggle to feed, and they crop poorly in spring or blow over.
Prevent it in three steps:
- Plant into firm soil in summer.
- Draw soil up around the lower stems in September.
- Tie each plant to a strong cane or stake by October, and re-firm any that rock after storms.

On an exposed plot, canes and earthed-up stems keep tall plants steady through winter gales.
Common mistakes with purple sprouting broccoli
- Sowing too late. June sowings give small plants that crop thinly. Sow by mid-May.
- Planting into loose soil. Always plant into firm, settled ground.
- Skipping the stakes. Unstaked plants snap or rock loose in winter gales.
- Picking too late. Once buds open, spears turn tough and the plant slows down.
- Taking the netting off in winter. Pigeons do their worst damage when other food runs out.
Want more to eat in early spring? Our guide to spring cabbage is another great hungry-gap crop, and what to grow for the hungry gap has more ideas. Browse the growing hub for more.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between purple sprouting broccoli and normal broccoli?
Purple sprouting broccoli is a hardy crop that overwinters for a spring harvest. It makes lots of small purple spears in late winter and spring. Calabrese, the green broccoli in shops, is a fast summer crop. It forms one big head in a few months and won’t survive winter outside.
When should I sow purple sprouting broccoli in the UK?
Sow from April to mid-May for spears next spring. Sow in modules or a seedbed, then plant out in June or July, 60cm apart. Later sowings leave plants too small to overwinter well and they crop poorly.
Why does purple sprouting broccoli need firm soil?
Firm soil anchors the tall plants against winter wind. In loose ground they rock about, roots tear and plants can blow over. Tread the bed before planting and firm the soil well around each stem.
How do I harvest purple sprouting broccoli to get more spears?
Cut the central spear first, with buds still tight. That triggers sideshoots from lower down the stem. Pick these every few days for several weeks. Stop when the buds open into yellow flowers, as spears turn tough.
Does purple sprouting broccoli need protection from pests?
Yes, it needs netting for most of its life. Pigeons strip leaves in winter, and cabbage white caterpillars eat them in summer. Cover plants with fine insect mesh or butterfly netting from planting until harvest.
Can you grow purple sprouting broccoli in pots?
It’s possible, but open ground is much better. Plants grow about 90cm tall and need a deep, steady root run. If you try a pot, use a very large one in a sheltered spot and stake the plant.
Our team produces practical UK gardening guidance from source research, contributor records and established horticultural practice. Editorial standards are overseen by Matt W.