Key takeaways
- Dry shade means shade plus dry soil: under trees, by north walls and next to hedges
- Geranium macrorrhizum and epimedium are the most reliable ground cover
- Male fern is one of the few ferns that copes with dry shade
- Plant small plants in autumn or spring, never in summer
- Water weekly for the first two summers, then they'll manage alone
- Mulch with 5cm of compost or leaf mould every spring
Dry shade is the hardest spot in any UK garden to plant. You get two problems at once: not enough light and not enough water. It turns up under big trees, against north-facing walls and along the bottom of hedges that drink the soil dry. The good news is that a handful of plants really do cope. Get the ground ready properly and you can cover ground where nothing grew before.
Why Dry Shade Is So Tricky to Plant
Dry shade throws two problems at plants at the same time, and most can’t handle both.
Shade on its own is fine. Plenty of woodland plants are happy under trees. Dry soil on its own is fine too, with the right plants. The trouble is when you get both. Most shade plants expect damp woodland soil and won’t survive the dry.
The dryness comes from three places. Tree canopies act like umbrellas, so rain never reaches the ground. Tree and hedge roots soak up lots of water. North walls keep rain off the soil next to them.
The worst spots are under a beech or conifer hedge, the strip beside a north wall and the ground under a big tree’s canopy. Plant those and you can plant anywhere.
Dry Shade Versus Damp Shade
Work out which shade you have before you buy a single plant.
They’re very different places to grow. A hosta or astilbe in dry shade will scorch and die. A dry-shade plant in damp shade may rot. Here’s an easy check: dig a hole about 20cm deep in summer. If the soil is dusty and pale, it’s dry shade. If it’s cool, dark and holds together, it’s damp shade.
| Feature | Dry shade | Damp shade |
|---|---|---|
| Where you find it | Under trees, north walls, hedge bottoms | Low ground, beside ponds, clay hollows |
| Soil in summer | Dusty, pale, cracked | Cool, dark, moist |
| Good plants | Epimedium, geraniums, the ferns below | Hosta, astilbe, ligularia, primula |
| Main problem | Drought and thirsty roots | Slugs and soggy ground |
| Settling in | Hard, needs two summers of watering | Easier |
This guide is all about dry shade. For the bigger picture, our best plants for shade UK guide covers both types.
Best Ground Cover for Dry Shade
Start with ground cover. It smothers weeds and stops the soil drying out even more.
Geranium macrorrhizum is the star. It makes a thick, scented carpet about 30cm high and copes with deep, dry shade. Euphorbia robbiae (wood spurge) is another tough one, with dark evergreen rosettes and lime-green spring flowers.
Epimedium (barrenwort) is the classic dry-shade survivor. Its heart-shaped leaves make low mounds and many are evergreen. Cut the old leaves off in February and you’ll get a cloud of dainty spring flowers above fresh new foliage.
Vinca (periwinkle) trails along and roots as it goes, covering ground fast. Blue or white flowers from March. Vinca major is vigorous, while Vinca minor is better behaved in smaller spots.
Periwinkle in flower in a shady city courtyard. Pick the smaller Vinca minor for tight spots and Vinca major for big banks.
For more ideas for every kind of spot, see our best ground cover plants UK guide.
Reliable Perennials for Dry Shade
Above the ground cover, these perennials add height, flowers and lovely leaves.
Bergenia (elephant’s ears) has huge leathery evergreen leaves that turn red in the cold. Pink or magenta flowers on chunky stems in spring. Once settled, it puts up with almost total neglect.
Pulmonaria (lungwort) flowers early, often by March, in blue, pink or white. Its silver-spotted leaves brighten dark corners. Cut it back hard after flowering for fresh leaves.
Brunnera macrophylla has clouds of forget-me-not-blue flowers in April. Varieties like ‘Jack Frost’ have silvery heart-shaped leaves that glow in the shade.
Geranium phaeum (dusky cranesbill) copes with drier, darker shade than most geraniums. Deep maroon flowers in late spring.
Hellebores flower through winter and early spring when little else does. Their leathery leaves stay green all year. They manage dry shade once their roots get down deep.
Liriope muscari is a grassy evergreen with violet flower spikes in autumn, a welcome late splash of colour in shade. Tough and copes with drought.
Bergenia at the foot of a north-facing terraced-house wall. Its leathery leaves shrug off dry soil.
Ferns and Bulbs That Cope With Dry Shade
Most ferns need damp soil. A couple don’t, and they bring a soft, feathery look nothing else can.
Male fern (Dryopteris filix-mas) is the one to grow. It’s one of very few ferns that copes with dry shade once settled. The fresh green fronds die back in winter. It’s happy against a north wall.
Soft shield fern (Polystichum setiferum) is evergreen and also copes with drier shade than most ferns. Its arching fronds give shape through winter when the borders are bare.
Male fern at the foot of a north-facing brick wall. It still likes compost dug in and watering for its first two summers.
For the full range of UK ferns, including the ones that like damp, see our hardy UK ferns and fernery guide.
Cyclamen hederifolium is the best bulb for dry shade. Its pink flowers pop up in autumn before the marbled leaves, just when the ground under trees is driest. Over the years it seeds itself around into lovely drifts. Iris foetidissima earns a place too. It’s evergreen, copes with dry shade and its seed pods split in autumn to show bright orange seeds.
Cyclamen hederifolium flowering under a tree in October, when the soil is at its driest.
Shrubs for Structure in Dry Shade
Shrubs give dry shade its backbone. These three are worth their place.
Sarcococca (Christmas box or sweet box) is a small evergreen with tiny white winter flowers that scent the whole garden. It copes with deep, dry shade and stays neat at about 1m.
Mahonia has bold evergreen leaves and yellow winter flowers that feed early bees. Tough and easy-going in shade.
Aucuba japonica (spotted laurel) is the go-to for the darkest, driest corners. Its gold-speckled evergreen leaves brighten the gloom, and it survives where almost nothing else will. Its main weak spot is aucuba blackening, when leaves turn black after frost, cold wind or waterlogging.
The Real Secret: Getting the Ground Ready
Choosing plants is the fun bit, but ground prep is what makes them succeed. It’s also the bit most people skip.
Dry shade soil is poor, dusty and full of roots. You can’t change the shade, but you can improve the soil. Before planting, dig in as much compost, leaf mould or well-rotted manure as you can. Leaf mould is perfect because it’s just like the woodland floor these plants come from.
Follow these steps and your plants will settle in:
- Plant small. Buy 9cm pots, not big plants. Small roots push into tight soil, while big ones just sit and sulk.
- Plant in autumn or spring. Never in summer. In autumn, roots grow into warm, moist soil before winter.
- Dig generous holes. Twice the width of the pot, with compost mixed into the bottom and the backfill.
- Water in well. A full 5-litre can per plant at planting.
- Water weekly for two summers. Through every dry spell, until they’re settled.
- Mulch every spring. A 5cm layer of compost or leaf mould holds moisture and feeds the soil.
Watering is where most people go wrong. They plant, water once and walk away, and in dry shade that’s fatal. The first two summers make all the difference. After that, the plants on this list can look after themselves.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between dry shade and damp shade?
Dry shade has both low light and dry soil. You find it under trees, against north walls and beside hedges that suck the soil dry. Damp shade stays moist, so it suits different plants like hostas and astilbes. Dry shade is the harder of the two.
What is the best ground cover for dry shade UK?
Geranium macrorrhizum is the best ground cover for UK dry shade. It makes a thick, weed-smothering carpet about 30cm high and copes with deep, dry shade. Epimedium and Euphorbia robbiae are close behind. All three only need watering while they settle in.
Can ferns grow in dry shade?
Most ferns need moisture, but a few cope with dry shade. Male fern (Dryopteris filix-mas) is the most reliable and survives under trees once settled. Soft shield fern (Polystichum setiferum) copes too. Both still want compost dug in and watering for their first two summers.
Why do my plants die in dry shade?
Usually because they went in too big, too late and weren’t watered. Tree roots in dry shade grab all the water. Plant small 9cm pots in autumn, dig in compost and water weekly for two summers. Skip any of those and plants struggle.
What can I plant under a tree where nothing grows?
Start with Geranium macrorrhizum, epimedium and Cyclamen hederifolium. All three cope with dry, rooty, shady soil. Add leaf mould first, plant small and water through the first two summers. Don’t dig deep among big tree roots.
Now plan the rest of your shade garden
Dry shade is just one part of a shady garden. For evergreen shape, our best shrubs for shade UK guide covers the backbone of the border. Want to grow food in the shade? Our vegetables to grow in shade UK guide shows which crops cope. For summer colour, our shade-tolerant annuals UK guide fills the gaps. Pick your plants from this list, get the ground ready, and dry shade won’t be the hardest spot in the garden any more.
Our team produces practical UK gardening guidance from source research, contributor records and established horticultural practice. Editorial standards are overseen by Matt W.
