Key takeaways
- Pot leeks are short and thick, with a blanch of no more than 150mm to the button under NVS rules
- They are judged mainly on volume, plus condition and how well a set matches
- Prize strains are grown from plantlets (grass) on the flower head, so they stay true
- Grow young plants on under glass over winter without any check to growth
- Plant into a rich, well-manured bed and feed and water generously all summer
- Blanch with collars and keep soil out of the heart of the plant
Pot leeks are short, fat, barrel-shaped show leeks, and growing them is a proud north-east England tradition. They are judged mainly on volume, not length, so the aim is the thickest, most solid leek you can grow within the blanch limit. Prize strains are passed on as plantlets rather than seed, and they are fed generously all season.
This guide covers keeping a strain going, raising young plants, feeding, blanching, and dressing and staging for the bench. For an overview of entering shows, see the guide to growing for your village veg show. For everyday leeks, see how to grow leeks.
What is a pot leek, and how is it judged?
A pot leek has a short, thick white stem, called the barrel. The button is the point where the first leaf breaks away from the stem. Under National Vegetable Society rules, a pot leek’s blanch from base to button is no more than 150mm (6 inches). Longer leeks go in other classes.
Pot leeks are judged mainly on volume, worked out from the girth and the length of blanch, with points for condition too. Leek shows and clubs have been part of life in Northumberland, Durham and Tyneside for generations. Always read your own show schedule, as local rules can differ.
| Class | What judges look for | Shape |
|---|---|---|
| Pot leek | Volume, condition, blanch up to 150mm | Short, thick barrel |
| Intermediate leek | Volume and condition, medium blanch | Medium length |
| Blanch leek | Long, clean blanch | Long, slender stem |
How to keep a pot leek strain going
Prize pot leeks are kept going from plantlets, not seed. Seed from a good leek won’t produce the same leek, but a plantlet is an exact copy of its parent.
Let your best leek flower in its second year. When the round flower head forms, remove the florets as they open. Small plantlets, called grass, then start to grow in the head instead. Once they are big enough to handle in late summer or autumn, separate them and pot them up. This is how good strains are kept and shared between growers for years.
Remove the florets from the flower head and little plantlets, called grass, grow in their place. Each one is a copy of the parent leek.
Raising young pot leeks over winter
Pot up the plantlets in autumn and grow them on under glass, with gentle warmth and as much light as you can give. The aim is steady growth with no check. Keep them frost-free, water carefully and move them into bigger pots before the roots start circling.
Move young leeks into bigger pots before the roots start circling. Any check now can make them bolt in summer.
By spring you should have sturdy plants ready to harden off. Do this slowly, over a couple of weeks, before planting out. A sudden cold snap on soft plants, or roots left too long in a cramped pot, can make them bolt later. A bolted leek sends up a flower stem and is finished for the show bench.
Feeding and growing big barrels
Pot leeks are hungry. Prepare the bed in winter by digging in plenty of well-rotted manure. The guide to animal manures compares the options. Plant out in spring, giving each leek plenty of space to bulk up.
Through summer, feed regularly with a liquid feed. A higher-nitrogen feed early on drives leafy growth. Switch to a more balanced feed as the barrel swells, so it firms up rather than going soft. Water generously and never let the bed dry out, as a dry spell stalls growth. Some growers add a comfrey liquid feed as a potash boost.
Plant pot leeks into a richly manured bed and fit collars round the stems. They are among the hungriest crops on the plot.
Blanching and keeping leeks healthy
Blanch the barrel by fitting collars of cardboard, pipe or tubes around the stem. Light is kept out, so the barrel stays white. Raise the collars as the leek grows, staying within the blanch limit. Keep soil and grit out of the heart, as dirt between the leaves loses marks.
Watch for these leek problems:
- Leek rust: orange spots on the leaves, worse in damp, crowded beds. Space plants well and remove affected leaves. See the guide to leek rust.
- Allium leaf miner and leek moth: larvae tunnel into the stems. Cover plants with fine insect mesh during egg-laying times. The guide to leek moth has the dates.
- White tip: the leaf tips turn white and die back. Improve airflow and avoid wetting the leaves late in the day.
- Bolting: usually after a check to growth. Prevent it with steady, unchecked growing.
Lifting, dressing and staging pot leeks
Lift pot leeks a day or so before the show. Ease them out with a fork so the barrel and roots stay whole. Wash off the soil gently.
Peel away damaged outer skin to reveal a clean white barrel, then stop. Over-peeling leaves a soft leek.
Dressing means making each leek look its best. Peel away damaged outer skin to show a clean, white barrel, but stop as soon as it looks sound, as over-peeling exposes soft layers. Tidy the roots and leaves as your schedule says.
Pick leeks that match in size and shape. Judges want solid, clean barrels with no faults.
Stage the number of leeks the schedule asks for, picking ones that match in size and shape. Judges want solid, clean barrels with no faults. Marks go for bolting, rust, softness, splits and leeks that don’t match. The guide to how allotment show judging works explains more.
Pot leek calendar
| Month | What to do |
|---|---|
| September to October | Pot up plantlets from your best leeks’ flower heads |
| November to February | Grow on under glass and pot on before roots circle |
| March to April | Harden off slowly and plant into a rich, manured bed |
| May to August | Feed and water generously. Fit and raise collars |
| Late August to September | Lift, dress and stage for the shows |
Common pot leek mistakes
- Underfeeding. Pot leeks are hungry. Feed regularly in summer.
- Leaving plants pot-bound. Cramped roots can make them bolt. Pot on in good time.
- A cold shock at planting out. Soft plants chilled in spring often bolt. Harden off slowly.
- Soil in the heart. Grit between the leaves loses marks. Collar carefully.
- Over-peeling. Stripping too many skins leaves a soft barrel. Clean to a sound white and stop.
Now you know the pot leek routine, try another classic show crop with the guide to trench celery for show. There are more crops in the growing veg section.
Frequently asked questions
What is a pot leek?
A short, thick show leek from the north-east of England. Under NVS rules its blanch, from the base to the button where the first leaf breaks, is no more than 150mm. It is judged mainly on volume rather than length.
How are pot leeks propagated?
From small plantlets that form on the flower head, not from seed. Growers remove the flowers from a leek’s seed head and tiny plantlets, called grass, develop instead. Each one is an exact copy of the parent, so a good strain stays true.
What is leek grass?
Leek grass is the cluster of tiny plantlets that grows on a leek’s flower head. Exhibitors encourage it by removing the florets. They then pot the plantlets up and grow them on under glass.
How are pot leeks judged?
Mainly on volume, worked out from the girth and the length of blanch. Judges also look at condition, solidity and how well a set matches. Bolting, rust, softness and splits lose marks.
When do you start pot leeks for show?
Pot up plantlets in autumn and grow them on under glass over winter. They need a long season to bulk up for late summer shows. Plant out into a rich bed in spring after hardening off.
Why do pot leeks bolt?
Usually after a check to growth. Cold or a cramped pot are common causes. A bolting leek sends up a flower stem and is no use for the bench. Pot on in good time and harden off slowly.
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