Key takeaways
- Coppicing cuts to a low stool near the ground, pollarding cuts to the top of a trunk
- Cut while trees are leafless, ideally November to February, and check for nesting birds
- Hazel is coppiced every 7-10 years, willow and dogwood every year or two
- Start pollarding while a tree is young, never on a big tree that has never been cut
- Check with your council first if a tree has a preservation order or is in a conservation area
Coppicing and pollarding are old ways of cutting trees that still work brilliantly in gardens. Coppicing cuts a tree down near the ground. Pollarding cuts it back to the top of a trunk. Either way, the tree sends up a crop of fresh stems and stays small.
You get free bean poles, pea sticks and firewood, plus a tree that never outgrows its space. Here’s which trees to choose, when to cut and how to make cuts that heal cleanly.
What is the difference between coppicing and pollarding?
Coppicing cuts low and pollarding cuts high. Both rely on the tree regrowing from the cut.
Coppicing cuts a tree or shrub down to about 5-15cm above the ground. The cut base is called a stool, and it sends up lots of straight new stems. You harvest those stems every few years and let them grow back.
Pollarding cuts all the branches back to the top of a trunk, traditionally about 2-3m up. That height kept new shoots away from grazing animals. A knobbly head, sometimes called a bolling, forms at the top. Each time you cut, you go back to that same point.
| Coppicing | Pollarding | |
|---|---|---|
| Where you cut | 5-15cm above the ground | Top of the trunk, often 2-3m up |
| Good for | Poles, pea sticks, wildlife | Keeping big trees small near buildings |
| Classic trees | Hazel, sweet chestnut, willow | Willow, lime, London plane |
| How often | Every 1-15 years, depending on the tree | Every 1-5 years |
| Watch out for | Deer and rabbits eating new shoots | Never start on an old, uncut tree |
Coppice on the left, pollard on the right. Same idea, different height.
Which trees can you coppice or pollard?
Most broadleaved trees regrow after a hard cut. They have hidden buds under the bark that burst into growth when the top is removed. Most conifers don’t, so a pine or spruce cut to the ground simply dies. Yew is the exception.
| Tree | Method | Usual cycle | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Willow | Both | Every year or two | Weaving, living structures |
| Dogwood | Coppice | Every year or two | Bright winter stems |
| Hazel | Coppice | 7-10 years | Pea sticks, bean poles |
| Sweet chestnut | Coppice | 12-18 years | Fence posts, stakes |
| Hornbeam | Both | 8-15 years | Poles, firewood |
| Lime | Both | Every few years | Street and garden pollards |
Hazel is the best tree to start with. It grows on most soils, regrows reliably and gives the most useful crop. Our guide to growing hazel and cobnuts covers planting, and our hazel pea sticks guide shows what to do with the rods.
A few years after cutting, one hazel stool gives a whole bundle of straight rods. Perfect for bean poles.
When to coppice and pollard
Cut while the tree is leafless, ideally from November to February. The tree is resting, with its energy stored in the roots, so it regrows strongly in spring.
Pick a dry day without hard frost, as frozen wood bruises and tears more easily. Aim to finish by the end of February. Birds start nesting from March, and damaging an active nest is an offence at any time of year. If you do work later, check every tree carefully first.
Coloured-stem dogwoods and willows are the exception. Leave their bright stems for winter colour, then cut them back in March just as new growth starts. Our guide to growing dogwood explains how.
| Month | What to do |
|---|---|
| November | Start cutting hazel, hornbeam and willow once the leaves fall |
| December to January | Main cutting time. Work on dry, frost-free days |
| February | Finish cutting before birds start nesting |
| March | Cut coloured dogwoods and willows, after checking for nests |
| April to August | No cutting. Protect new shoots from deer and rabbits |
| September to October | Plan which stools or pollards are due next |
Pollarded willows along a ditch. Winter, when they’re bare, is the time to cut them back to their knobbly heads.
How to coppice a tree
Cut every stem down to 5-15cm above the ground. It feels drastic, but a low cut keeps the stool healthy and long-lived.
- Clear around the base so you can see every stem.
- Cut thin stems with loppers or a billhook.
- Saw thicker stems with a pruning saw, using the three-cut method below for anything heavy.
- Angle each cut slightly so rain runs off.
- Sort the wood into pea sticks, bean poles and firewood.
New shoots appear in spring. Deer and rabbits love them, so put a simple fence or guard round the stool for the first couple of seasons.
How to pollard a young tree
Start pollarding while the tree is young and the trunk is still thin. Once it reaches the height you want, cut the top off and shorten the side branches to short stubs.
A knobbly head forms where you cut. From then on, cut all new growth back to that same point every one to five years. Don’t cut into the older wood below the head.
Never start pollarding a large, mature tree that has never been cut. The big wounds can rot and the tree may become unsafe. Restoring an old pollard is a job for a qualified tree surgeon.
Check first: If a tree has a Tree Preservation Order or stands in a conservation area, you’ll need to tell your council before cutting it. Our guide to tree preservation orders explains what to do.
Street trees are often pollarded to keep them a safe size beside houses. The same idea works for a lime or willow in a garden.
How to make a clean cut
Sharp tools and clean cuts matter more than anything else. A clean cut seals over. A torn, crushed one lets in rot.
For stems thicker than about 5cm, use the three-cut method:
- Cut about a third of the way through from underneath, a little way out from where you want the final cut.
- Cut down from the top, slightly further out, until the branch drops.
- Trim the stub back cleanly to the stool or pollard head.
Without the first undercut, a heavy branch can rip a long strip of bark as it falls. Our guide to removing large tree branches covers this in more detail.
A clean cut, left, closes over. A torn one, right, lets rot and fungi in. Sharp tools make all the difference.
Why coppicing is good for wildlife
Cutting lets light flood in, and woodland flowers burst into life. Primroses, bluebells, wood anemones and violets often appear within a year or two.
Those flowers feed bees and butterflies. Some woodland butterflies, such as the pearl-bordered fritillary, depend on freshly cut coppice. As the stems regrow, the plot shifts from open ground to scrub to shade, and different wildlife moves in at each stage. Cutting a little every year gives you a patchwork of all of them.
Even a short coppiced boundary in a garden adds shelter and flowers. Mix in other native trees for UK gardens for even more wildlife.
Freshly cut coppice lets in the light, and spring flowers carpet the ground.
Common coppicing and pollarding mistakes
- Cutting in leaf. Summer cutting weakens the tree and risks disturbing nests. Cut in winter.
- Leaving tall stumps. A high coppice cut gives weak, leggy stems. Cut low.
- Pollarding an old tree. Start young, or call a qualified tree surgeon.
- Blunt tools. Torn cuts let in rot. Sharpen before every session.
- Forgetting the cycle. Stools left far too long grow thick, heavy stems that are hard to cut. Note your cutting dates.
For other cutting jobs through the year, see our year-round pruning calendar, or find more practical projects in our how-to guides.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between pollarding and coppicing?
Coppicing cuts near the ground, pollarding cuts at the top of a trunk. Both make the tree send up lots of new stems, which you cut again every few years.
When should you coppice or pollard a tree?
While the tree is leafless, ideally from November to February. Pick a dry day without hard frost. Check carefully for nesting birds if you work into March.
Which trees can be coppiced?
Most broadleaved trees, including hazel, willow, sweet chestnut, hornbeam, lime, field maple and oak. Most conifers will not regrow, so a pine or spruce cut to the ground dies. Yew is the main exception.
How often do you coppice hazel?
Every 7-10 years for poles, or more often for pea sticks. Shorter cycles give thinner rods, longer cycles give thicker poles.
Does coppicing or pollarding kill a tree?
No, done properly it can help a tree live longer. The risk comes from pollarding a big, old tree that has never been cut. Start young, or ask a qualified tree surgeon.
How high should you pollard a tree?
Traditionally 2-3m, out of reach of grazing animals. In a garden you can choose a lower height to suit the space. Keep cutting back to the same point each time.
Can I coppice an overgrown shrub to rejuvenate it?
Yes, many shrubs regrow well after being cut to the base. Hazel, dogwood, elder and willow all respond strongly. Cut coloured-stem dogwoods in early spring for the brightest new stems.
Our team produces practical UK gardening guidance from source research, contributor records and established horticultural practice. Editorial standards are overseen by Matt W.
